Droga do La Merced

23-9-2014

 


Do La Merced zostało około 260 km. O 7-mej rano, gdy słońce dostatecznie oświetliło wierzchołki wyłaniających się przede mną gór, ruszam by pokonać ostatni odcinek na trasie Arica – Lima – La Merced. Ruszam, ruszam ale do przodu zbytnio się nie posuwam. Korek. 1000 metrów – stop. Stoję 15 minut, jadę 1000, może 1500 metrów i stop. Stoję 15 minut, a może pół godziny. Jadę. 1000 metrów ... itd. Tak przez 9 godzin. W międzyczasie dowiaduję się od jadącego za mną dentysty z Limy, który tędy raz w tygodniu jeździ do domu, że droga wije się na prawie 5.000 m.n.p.m., a dokładnie na 4.918 na szczyt Ticlo, dokąd prowadzi tylko ta jedna jedyna droga i jak gdzieś wydarzy się wypadek - a wydarzają sie one tu często -, to powstaje ruch wahadłowy i to własnie wygląda tak jak wygląda. Nie mając innej rady powolutku, kilometr za kilometrem dojeżdżam do miejsca, w którym wywróciła się ciężarówka z węglem i minowszy newralgiczny punkt dalej już idzie, a raczej jedzie zdecydowanie lepiej, mimo że ostro pod góre. W pewnym momencie udaje mi się zobaczyć pociąg jadący po do niedawna najwyżej na świecie położonej żelaznej drodze (obecnie wyżej wybudowano bodajże w Chinach), wzniesionej przez naszego rodaka inżyniera Ernesta Malinowskiego. Pociąg dosłownie wkręca się widząc zakrętaśną drogę, po której sunie do przodu, na wysokość bagatela 4.700 metrów. Ja wjeżdżam jeszcze wyżej aż osiągam szczyt, na którym poznany niedawno dentysta, strzela mi fote. Do tej pory wyżej nie byłem. Z Ticlo już cały czas w dół przez La Oroye i Tarmę powolutku, oszczędzając hamulce, przecinam się przez bramę prowadzącą do dżungli. Puerta de oro de selva cental. Koncentrując się na drodze nie zauwżyłem kiedy diametralnie zmienił się krajobraz. Gołe górskie skały zastąpił gęsty, soczyście zielony las, z którego co rusz wystrzeliwujące w niebo palmy nadają urok prawdziwej tropikalnej dżungli. Dopiero dojechawszy na miejsce orientuje się, że to nie tylko urok ale że to fakt. Jestem w prawdziwej peruwianskiej dżungli, w dorzeczu Amazonki. Jestem w miejscu, gdzie rozgrywała się akcja fascynującej powieści mego dzieciństwa „Tomek u źródeł Amazonki” Szklarskiego. Jestem w miejscu, w pobliżu którego przebywając na jednej ze swoich wypraw, Arkady Fidler opisywał ryby śpiewające w Ucayali. Właśnie tu dojechałem i właśnie tu zaparkuję „into the world” na dłużej – na parę miesięcy.

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