Ollantaytambo i Chinchero

9-2-2015

 


Dostałam bojowe zadanie żeby opisać nasze wspólne wypady poza Cusco. Po Peru podróżuję z Jolką, a od kilku dni jest z nami Witek. Mam na imię Aśka. No to do boju!

Po bogatym programie zwiedzania dnia poprzedniego (Pisac, ognisko u hipisów, projekcja filmu o tajemniczej górze i jej cieniu, nocnym powrocie taksówką z pasażerem w bagażniku) budzimy się jak zwykle wcześnie rano, bo w Peru samo tak wychodzi. Na śniadanie to samo co od kilku dni – bułki z dżemem, kawa/coca, ale jak na te śniadania się czeka... Po śniadaniu znajdujemy colectivo i po 2 godzinach jesteśmy w Ollantaytambo. Znowu jest pięknie. Małe miasteczko u stóp dzikich gór, na zboczach poinkaskie ruiny. Wyglądają wspaniale! Tyle już widziałam w ciągu ostatnich tygodni, ale codziennie zachwycam się od nowa. Wspinamy się w górę kamiennymi schodami, krążymy po murach i zakamarkach, próbując zgadywać co tu było/działo się wcześniej – świątynia i modlitwy, forum i narady wojenne, zegar słoneczny wyznaczający rytm życia Inków.

Po obejrzeniu wszystkich kątów schodzimy do miasta na coś słodkiego. Wybieramy kawiarnię przy ulicy, składamy zamówienie na ciasta z kremem i kawę. Każdy wybiera co innego, kosztujemy i oceniamy nawzajem swoje wybory. Witek I miejsce (tort czekoladowy + owoce na specjalne życzenie), co wzięła Jolka…hmm... coś smacznego, moje ciasto najsłabsze.

Ruszamy dalej. Przed nami cudne widoki – naprzeciw odwiedzonych wcześniej ruin kolejne, fascynujące, inne.
Znowu w górę. Teraz nie jest tak łatwo. Ścieżki ledwo wydeptane, momentami w ogóle giną, stromo. Trochę wieje; dlatego jedną ręką trzymam kapelusz, drugą trzymam się skały. Po 200 m wspinaczki mam dość, nie chcę odlecieć z kapeluszem. Siadam na jakimś występie i szukam wzrokiem resztę ekipy. Zniknęli. Chowam się w cieniu skały, bo mimo kapelusza czuję promienie słońca na twarzy, a słońce bywa tu zdradzieckie. Ledwo wyczuwalne potrafi „opalić” i to na długo. Siedzę i kontempluję widoki. Po 20 minutach Jolka z Witkiem wynurzają się zza skał, machają, że schodzimy. Trzeba ich dopytać co widzieli, bo widzieli więcej ode mnie, a w każdym razie co innego.

Jest już dobrze po południu, a przed nami jeszcze jedno miejsce do odwiedzenia - jutro kończy się ważność naszych biletów więc „teraz albo nigdy”. Wciskamy się w jakieś pełne colectivo. Witek wcisnął się już tylko na podłogę. Po jakiejś godzinie docieramy do Chinchero. Słońce już w odwrocie, więc szybkim krokiem zmierzamy w stronę kolejnych atrakcji. Po raz kolejny nie zawodzimy się. Wąską uliczką wzdłuż straganów z pamiątkami, mijając wracających turystów pniemy się w górę, w kierunku klasztoru. W biegu zabijamy głód gotowaną kukurydzą (dużo tego nie da się zjeść) i już jesteśmy na pełnym kolorów placu. Kolorowe są stroje Indianek, koce na których siedzą i pamiątki, w większości zrobione ręcznie. Prawie daję się namówić na zakup kolejnego pledu w tradycyjne inkaskie wzory; mam do nich wyraźną słabość.

Rzut oka na klasztor (nie mamy czasu!) i dłuższy postój w miejscu, skąd roztacza się zapierający dech widok na góry, zielone łąki i tarasy. Sycimy nim oczy nim zapadnie ciemność, a później uruchamiamy inne zmysły. Jest magicznie. Witek blisko, krąży niczym sokół ;), Jolka hasa gdzieś niżej. Chwilo trwaj…

Z błogiego trwania budzi nas obawa przed brakiem transportu do Cusco, więc pustymi już uliczkami schodzimy w dół, do miasta. Po chwili oczekiwania łapiemy pełny autobus i na stojąco, bujając się między siedzeniami, wracamy do domu. Jaka szkoda!

A dzień później znów jest pięknie…

* * *
Do opisu Asi dołożę tylko trzy zdania o własnych przeżyciach (Witek). Asia wspomina, że w pewnym momencie z Jolą idziemy inną drogą na inną górkę. Schodząc spotykamy Indiankę. Stoi przed nami. Nie wiemy skąd przyszła i jak się tu znalazła. Wcześniej, mimo że drogę przed nami mieliśmy jak na dłoni, nie było jej widać. Podchodzimy, witamy się pochylając głowy. Proszę o wspólne zdjęcie. Normalnie Indianie bardzo niechętnie się fotografują, a jak już, to trzeba za to zapłacić. Tym razem ani nie wyczuwa się niechęci, a o zapłacie nie ma mowy. Sam proponuję, ale spotykam się ze stanowczą odmową. Dziwne. Schodzimy z Jolą dalej w dół. Po paru krokach obracam się, ale po Indiance nie ma już śladu mimo że widzę całą drogę w górę. Tak samo jak nagle się pojawiła, tak samo nagle zniknęła. Dokąd? Jak? Kiedy? Każdy może to sobie tłumaczyć na swój sposób. Ja swoje wytłumaczenie już mam.

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