Tomek i ceremonia Hayouasci

18-4-2015

 


Tomek to wspaniały facet, który sześć lat temu przeprowadził się z Łodzi, znaczy z miasta Łodzi do Pucallpy i tu się ożenił, tu mu dorasta syn, też Tomek, tu postawił dla swojej rodziny mały, przytulny domek pod lasem, tu buduje w dżungli centrum hayouasci i tu z dala od cywilizacji, wielkomiejskiego pośpiechu i stresu poszukuje swojego szczęścia, które wydaje się jest tuż, tuż.
Ten to właśnie Tomek poświęcił nam tzn. mnie i Marcinowi dwa dni na pokazanie Pucallpy takiej o jakiej nie piszą w przewodnikach - zaprosił nas do swojego domu, żeby pokazać jak żyje się prawie że w centrum dżungli, no i za jego pomocą i radą mogliśmy niesłychanie tanio popływać po lagunie Yarinacoche, zwiedzić zoo, a przede wszystkim skosztować tutejszego przysmaku ceviche czyli zupy rybnej z owocami morza. To jeszcze nie wszystko. Tomek zaproponował nam dwudniowy wypad do dżungli tam, gdzie buduje właśnie swoje centrum hayouasci. Ja jako, że już odpuściłem płynięcie statkiem do Iquitos, dysponuję czasem i chętnie skorzystam z możliwości przespania się w dżungli. Marcin też się pisze, a więc jesteśmy umówieni. Niestety wieczorem okazuje się, że z wypadu nici. Tomek właśnie się dowiedział, że w łodzi, którą mieliśmy płynąć padł motor, a stan wód jest obecnie na tyle wysoki, że bez łodzi ani rusz, więc albo będziemy czekać do naprawy motoru albo niestety nie zobaczymy tego o czym Tomek już tyle się naopowiadł. Aż tyle czasu ani ja ani Marcin nie mamy więc zadawalamy się oglądaniem zdjęć. One też robią wrażenie. Tymczasem Tomek, pewnie widząc nasze zawiedzione miny, wpada na nowy koncept i proponuje byśmy zamiast do niego na budowę poszli do mieszkającego w dżungli, 10 km od drogi, jego przyjaciela, szamana Raula. Tam być może będziemy mogli wziąć udział w ceremoni hayouasci no i oczywiście możemy też tam przenocować. No jasne, że się piszemy.
Następnego dnia, w iście pionierskich warunkach (całą noc padało), brnąc w czerwonym błocie po kolana (teraz wiem dlaczego Indianie ten rejon nazywali Pucallpa czyli czerwona zatoka), maszerujemy przez dziewiczą dżunglę 10 km. To niby nie dużo, ale topiąc się w błocie potrzebujemy na przejście ponad trzech godzin. Nic to. Wierzcie mi, że to nawet przyjemne móc taplać się błocie w tropikalnej dżungi na dodatek o zachodzie słońca. Właśnie gdy docieramy do celu, czyli do samotnej chaty, pokrytej palmowymi liściami, na polanie w środku dżungli, słońce ma się już dobrze ku zachodowi i wkrótce ogarnia nas nieprzenikniony mrok. O prądzie czy innych cudach cywilizacji nikt tu nie słyszał.
Gospodarz czyli Raul wita nas w hamaku, zaprasza do środka, gdzie już zadomowiło się paru innych gości. W jednym momencie wszyscy się poznają, a atmosfera robi się taka jakbyśmy tu wszyscy razem mieszkali już od dłuższego czasu.
Po chwili Raul zaczyna przygotowywać się do ceremoni. Wszyscy, którzy chcą, mogą wziąć udział. Ja chcę i też zaczynam się przygotowywać mentalnie. O tym, że będę ewentualnie mógł wziąć udział w ceremoni wiem już od wczoraj także od wczoraj niewiele jem i piję. Zanim zaczniemy ceremonię wprowadzę niewtajemniczonych w to co to jest hayouasca. Jest to drzewo, którego pędy gotuje się przez wiele dni w wodzie aż do otrzymania roztworu, który miesza się z innymi ziołami i otrzymuje halucynogenny, oczyszczający ekstrakt, którym od wieku szamani wyciągają z człowieka duszę by móc przyjrzeć się jej z bliska i postawić diagnozę czy coś człowiekowi dolega, a jeżeli tak to jak to coś leczyć. To tak w wielkim skrócie. Więcej oczywiście znaleźć można w odpowiedniej literaturze.
Przygotowany wchodzę do pokoju, w którym palą się świece, każdy z uczestników ma przygotowany koc do okrycia i wiaderko do ... (pisałem, że hayouasca to środek oczyszczający). Pośrodku siedzi Raul i jego uczeń. Siadam na wskazanym miejscu. Po chwili szaman mnie przywołuje do siebie. Siadam przed nim. On długo mi się przygląda, po czym dmucha parę razy w liście coci, podrzuca je kilkakrotnie za każdym razem przyglądając się uważnie jak spadają. Potem mówi mi to, co tylko ja mogę słyszeć więc nie będę powtarzał. Siadam spowrotem na swoje miejsce. Zalega cisza. Dostaję kubeczek z hayouascę. Piję i oczekuję aż przyjdzie także po mnie zegarmistrz.....który nie musi mi nic bełtać bo sam se zabełtałem znakomicie i zanim zgaśnie mi podłoga i powietrze słyszę jak moim sąsiadom już spływa na przestrzał do wiaderka. Mi nie spływa. Czasem przebudzam się i słyszę monotonny głos szamana. Coś śpiewa.
Nagle ze snu wyrywa mnie kłótnia kobiet. Najpierw lekceważę, ale są tak głośne, że nie da się spać. Wychodzę by zobaczyć co się dzieje. Nic się nie dzieje. Nikogo nie ma. Wracam, kładę się, okrywam kocem, a one znowu w krzyk. Niemożliwe, przecież mi się nie wydaje. Znowu wychodzę, znowu nikogo nie ma. No ładnie – myślę. Halucynacje, zjawy skutki picia hayouaski. Już chce wracać spowrotem, gdy nagle rozlega się krzyk tuż za mną, a zaraz potem przede mną. Zadzieram głowę. Dwie zielone papugi siedząc na sasiednich drzewach przekamarzają się w najlepsze nie zwracając uwagi ani na wczesną porę ani na stan, w którym przynajmniej ja mogę się znajdować. Inni jakby przyzwyczajeni do odgłosów dżungli śpią w najlepsze.
Późnym przedpołudniem schodzimy się wszyscy na poranną kawę i lekkie śniadanie, po którym żegnamy się z Raulem i mieszkańcami samotnego domku i w strugach deszczu wracamy naszą jeszcze bardziej błotnistą drogą przez dżunglę do cywilizacji.
Nie mogę zakończyć tego artykułu bez bezpośrednich podziękowań Tomkowi bo ten czas, który przeżyłem dzięki niemu w Pucallpie i okolicy, a zwłaszcza w dżungli na spotkaniu z szamanem i ceremonią hayouasci to jedno z piękniejszych przeżyć w trakcie mojego "into the world". Jeżeli to czytasz to dzięki Ci Tomek i czekam na Ciebie, zgodnie z umową, na Jamajce. Na pewno też będzie fajnie.

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