Cordylliera Blanca

21-5-2015

 


Jak wspomniałem w poprzednim artykule, noc spędziliśmy na stacji benzynowej 20 kilometrów przed Huaraz. Bezpośrednio po śniadaniu, wyjeżdżamy do miasta, w którym mamy zamiar spędzić cały dzień. Asia pracowicie spędziła wczorajsze popołudnie i spośród mnóstwa spacerowych i trakingowych szlaków wzdłuż i w poprzek cordyllierskiej doliny wybrała kilkukilometrową, odpowiadającą naszym zasobom czasowym i kondycyjnym wędrówkę. Zapowiada się niesłychanie ekscytująco, bowiem droga z Huaraz prowadzić ma doliną Callejon de Huaylas (uliczka Huaylas), pomiędzy wschodnim pasmem Cordyllierów, zwanych Białymi (Cordylliera Blanca), a zachodnim zwanym Czarnymi (Cordylliera Negra) do misteczka Monterrey, znanego z gorących źródeł.

Samochód zostawiamy na rogatkach miasta, przy posterunku policji i stąd pieszo, przecinając miasto, wyruszamy w kierunku Willcawain. Maszerujemy łagodną, ale wciąż pnącą się, kamienistą i krętą scieżką. Mijamy parę pojedynczych indiańskich zabudowań, opuszczony stary cmentarz i po trzech godzinach dochodzimy do datowanej na 800 – 1000 rok n.e. osady Willcawain ze świetnie zachowanymi budynkami i ruinami z tamtego okresu. Chwila przerwy. Trochę dlatego, by złapać oddech, wędrujemy bowiem na wysokości 3000 m., gdzie tlen jest mocno reglamentowany, a trochę dlatego, by przypatrzeć się majaczącym w oddali szczytom Kordyllierów Czarnych. Czarnych dlatego, że szczyty ich sięgają 5.000 m.n.p.m., a więc znacznie niżej niż sąsiednich Kordyllierów Białych i nigdy nie są pokryte ani lodem, ani śniegiem.

Płuca dotlenione, nogi odpoczęte, można ruszać dalej. Tym razem ścieżka biegnie przez las ostro w dół, by za lasem znowu pod górę doprowadzić nas do malutkiej, prawdopodobnie nie mającej nazwy, indiańskiej osady. Pewnie trochę dziwnie wyglądamy, ustępując drogi biegającym świniom czy osłom, nie mówiąc o zdumieniu na naszych twarzach, jakie wywołuje widok dzieci kąpiących się w przydrożnym kanale nawadniającym, czy też kobiet piorących w tymże kanale pranie. Dziwne, ale jakże piękne, naturalne i sielskie są takie widoki. Za wioską gubiąc raz po raz drogę (szczęście, że napotykamy na Indian, uprawiających swoje małe poletka, którzy wskazują nam dalszy kierunek), dochodzimy do rozłożystej polany z cudownym widokiem na bielące się na horyzoncie szczyty Kordyllierów Białych. Domyślacie się pewnie, że nazwa Blanca – Białe bierze się stąd, że strzelające w niebo na ponad 6.500 metrow szczyty (a jest ich ponad 50) okryte są wieczną zmarzliną. Niestety ostatnimi czasy, te największe peruwiańskie lodowce w dosyć szybkim tempie, ulegając globalnemu ociepleniu, topnieją. Spośród białych czap na pierwszy plan wybija się najwyższy, nie tylko tego pasma, ale całego Peru, szczyt o dźwięcznej nazwie Huascaran, osiągający słuszną wysokość 6.768 metrów. Moglibyśmy stać w nieskończoność, sycąc oczy i duszę pięknem otaczających nas krajobrazów, gdyby nie trzy powody, które każą nam przerwać tę sialankę i ruszać dalej. Po pierwsze dopada nas powoli zmęczenie, po drugie jeszcze szybciej dogania nas głód, a po trzecie chęć skorzystania z ciepłych kąpieli też nie jest bez znaczenia.

Powoli, już nie scieżką, a wyżłobionymi, kamienistymi korytami po spływajacych w porze deszczowej potokach, schodzimy do Monterrey. Niebawem, prawie że za najbliższym rogiem, odkrywamy baseny z gorącymi (temperatura dochodzi do 45 stopni C) źródlanymi wodami. Jeszcze tylko szybka przekąska w przydrożnej budce, by zaspokoić pierwszy głód i już po chwili moczymy się w ciepłej brązowej zupie. Ten brązowawy kolor trochę nas w pierwszej chwili zniechęca, ale dowiedziawszy się, że barwę tą wywołuje duża zawartość żelaza i siarki, a minerały te zdrowo oddziaływują na nasze ciało, decydujemy się na wejście. Grunt to zdrowie!
Do centrum Huaraz docieramy tuż przed zachodem słońca, co skrupulatnie dokumentuję pstrykając na rynku kilkanaście pomarańczowo-różowo-żółtawych zdjęć z ratuszem, sukiennicami, katedrą oraz stojącą na środku placu fontanną. Zanim ostatnie promiene znikną za wierzchołkami Zachodnich Kordyllierow zdążamy obejść cudowny, unikatowy ryneczek kilka razy i zjeść kolację w jednym z licznych barów. Gdy nad miastem zapada zmrok wracamy, już nie tak kolorowymi i ładnymi uliczkami, do pozostawionego na obrzeżach samochodu. Oprócz rynku miasto nie robi ciekawego wrażenia. Raczej brudne, zaniedbane, bez większych atrakcji. Z pewnością jednak urok Huaraz nie leży w nim samym, lecz w unikatowych i nieporównywalnych z niczym innym krajobrazach otaczających miasto. Dla nich, będąc w Peru, na pewno warto tu zawitać.

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