Gwatemala - Tikal

10-12-2015

 


Do bram starożytnego miasta Mayów – Tical, przybywam ni w pięć, ni w dziewięć, bo o drugiej w południe. Bramy do miasta otwarte są wprawdzie do osiemnastej (zwiedzanie po zmierzchu nie ma sensu), ale z tego co zdążyłem przeczytać warto miastu poświęcić cały dzień. Za późno zatem by pakować się do miasta jeszcze dziś, a za wcześnie by czekać do jutra. Z tych dwóch opcji nie pozostaje oczywiście nic innego jak ta druga. Stawiam samochód na skraju drogi i dla zabicia czasu, nie czekając do jutra, idę do biura informacji zaopatrzyć się w mapy i ewentualne porady co do jutrzejszego dnia. I to jest słuszna decyzja. Właśnie dowiedziałem się, że bilet kupiony po godzinie szesnastej służy też na następny dzień. Na dodatek w środku w parku, już za bramą wjazdową, jest pole campingowe, na którym wygodnie i bezpiecznie można spać. No proszę jaka kultura. W dwie godziny dzielące mnie od szesnastej, gotuję i wcinam obiad, a czasu starcza jeszcze na krótką poobiednią drzemkę.

Równiutko z czwartym uderzeniem zegara, z zakupionym tyle co biletem, przejeżdżam pod bramą wjazdową do prastarego świata Mayów. Znaki po drodze informują, by uważać na pumy, małpy, węże i inne dzikie zwierzęta. Jadę powoli, uważam. Bardzo uważam, ale one pewnie uważają jeszcze bardziej gdyż żadnego nie dostrzegam. Camping i jego wyposażenie na razie nie bardzo mnie interesują. Stawiam auto, gdzie bądź, byle równo (bardzo nie lubię spać na krzywo :) ) i szybkim krokiem, póki zmrok nie otuli dżungli, spieszę do centrum prastarego Tiklo na „Gran Plaza”. Mam nadzieję jeszcze dziś zakosztować tego co czeka mnie jutro. Dwudziestominutowa droga, wieczorową porą, przez dziewiczy las to istny spektakl dla uszu – dla wzroku ciut mniej z powodu szybko nastającego zmroku. Kładąca się spać leśna brać, a jest jej, jak słychać sporo, bardzo hałasuje. Pobieżnie lustruję pierwsze napotkane ruiny. W półmroku wydają się straszne i bardzo pobudzające wyobraźnie. No i te odgłosy dżungli dokoła. Jest mi bardzo mayańsko haha. Zapakowawszy w siebie worek entuzjazmu na jutrzejszą wyprawę, wracam już całkiem po ciemku na camping. Teraz mu się lepiej przyglądam. Faktycznie – są prysznice i czyściutka toaleta. Luxusu jaki nie często zdarza mi się po drodze spotykać. Korzystam raz dwa z jednego i drugiego i jak najszybciej kładę się spać, by nazajutrz wstać skoro świt i wyruszyć w teren przed najazdem pierwszych turystów. Krótko po wschodzie słóńca, droga którą szedłem wczoraj wieczorem, za sprawą budzącego się życia jest jeszcze głośniejsza. Porykiwanie małp, skaczących z gałęzi na gałąź, mieszające się z krzykiem barwnych papug, tukaniem równie kolorowych tukanów i całą symfonią zamieszkujących tropikalne lasy ptaków, musi wywołać uczucie znalezienia się w jakimś nieziemskim miejscu. Święta ziemia Mayów, którzy przysłuchiwali się tym odgłosom już ponad dwa i pół tysiąca lat temu. Kto wie czy to właśnie nie te głosy natury zdecydowały o wybraniu przez prastarych Indian tego miejsca na swe siedlisko ??? Mimo wrażenia, że cały las wokół mnie żyje, krzyczy, ćwierka i tuka to trudno wśród gęstwin dostrzec źródło tych odgłosów, a już o ich sfotografowaniu, nie ma mowy. Nie dość, że są głośne to jeszcze szybkie.
Po raz drugi dochodzę do głównego placu z potężnymi piramidami po dwóch przeciwległych stronach. Poranne światło nadaje im i i okalającym zabudowaniom dodatkowego blasku i królewskiej dostojności. Wysokie schody utrudniają wspinaczkę na szczyt, ale co tam, idę. Wchodzę wszędzie gdzie tylko się da, dotykamkam każdego szczegółu i chociaż wierzę, że to co widzę, na stałe pozostanie w mej pamięci to i tak, na wszelki wypadek uwieczniam wszystko na digitalnej karcie. Pstrykam, pstrykam i pstrykam.
Dalej maszeruję krętymi ścieżkami w kierunku Templo VI, Templo V, Plaza de siete Templos, Mundo Perdido (zagubiony świat) i na końcu Templo IV. Wszystko bajeczne, wszystko cudne, wszystko jakby z innego świata, ale widok roztaczający się z wierzchołka piramidy nr IV przebija wszystko, co do tej pory widziłem. (No może nie wszystko, ale z pewnością sporo). Widok wyrastających ponad dżunglę piramid, otulonych lekką poranną mgłą, poprostu poraża. Siadam na kamieniu, wpatruję się w dal i przez chwilę przenoszę się w odległe mayańskie czasy. Wprawdzie Mayowie osiedlili się tutaj już około 700 lat przed Chrystusem, ale pierwsze kompleksy, na których teraz siedzę i które malowniczo połyskuj przede mną, zaczęto wznosić 500 lat później, czyli około roku 200 p.n.e. świetność miasta natomiast przypada dopiero na okres od roku 200 do 700 naszej ery. W połowie VI wieku w Tikal mieszkało 100.000 ludzi na powierzchni 30 km2. Jak na tamte czasy to naprawdę wielka metropolia. Blask świetności świętego miasta przygasa niestety 200 lat później, około roku 900, kiedy to Tikal dzieli losy upadku całej kultury Mayów. Z wolna zarastając dżunglą, ów wspaniały gród popada w ruinę i zapomnienie na prawie 1000 lat. Po sześciuset latach hiszpańscy misjonarze wspominają w swych zapiskach o ruinach odnalezionych w dżungli, ale nie zadają sobie trudu na głębszą ich penetrację. Dopiero rok 1848 i nowo powstały gwatemalski rząd organizuje ekspedycję celem odnalezienia miasta. Prace archeologiczne trwają latami i w połowie zeszłego wieku obiekt zostaje oddany turystom, za co jestem tu i teraz niezmiernie wdzięczny. No to se porozmyślałem o historii kamienia na którym siedzę, a tymczasem na czubek piramidy zaczynają docierać za mną pierwsi turyści. O! O dziwo.... mówią po polsku. No proszę i jest jeszcze piękniej. Spotkanie z grupą Polaków objeżdżających Gwatemalę, Belize i Meksyk, krótka rozmowa i parę fotek wieńczy mój pobyt na wierzchołku piramidy IV. Wracam okrężną drogą do punktu wyjścia czyli do Gran Plaza Tu czeka na mnie następna niespodzianka... i to jaka. Już z daleka, po białoczerwonych naszywkach na rękawach z logiem Wrocławia rozpoznaję następną polską grupę. Podchodzę, serdecznie się witamy i na zmianę opowiadamy skąd, dokąd jak, gdzie i w ogóle wszystko, co w trakcie takich spotkań się opowiada. W pewnym momencie rozmowa schodzi na Playa del Carmen, skąd oni akurat przyjechli, a ja zmierzam. Napomykam, że mam zamiar dłużej tam pobyć i zająć sie serwisowaniem samochodu. Słyszałem – mówię, że mieszaka tam parę rodzin z Polski i mam nadzieję kogoś poznać kto pomógłby mi w tym przedsięwzięciu. W tym momencie pada – a my znamy jednego Polaka w Playa. Tak? Pytam niedowierzając i dodaję dla żartu – może Darka? Tak – brzmi odpowiedź. Znamy Darka. Nie wierzę. Poważnie? - Możecie dać mi jego numer telefonu, bo od dłuższego czasu się zastanawiam jak mam go w Playa odszukać. – Nie telefonu Ci nie damy. Sam Ci da. Stoi koło ciebie. Hm – po raz drugi nie wierzę. Darek, którego nie wiem jak miałbym szukać w Playa del Carmen, stoi obok mnie w gwatemalskiej dżungli. Cud na świętej ziemi Mayów. Wymieniamy z Darkiem uściski dłoni i numery telefonów, a ja mam od razu wrażenie, że Witek, mój kolega z technikum, nie kłamał, twierdząc, że Darek to fajny gość. Okazuje się, że Darek vel Dario jest przewodnikiem po Ameryce Łacińskiej. Oprowadza polskie i niemieckie grupy praktycznie od Patagonii po północny Meksyk i z jedną z takich grup dotarł w tym samym czasie co ja w to samo miejsce co ja - do starożytnego Tikal w Gwatemali. Dalej nie wierzę, że to możliwe, ale to fakt. Widzę i słyszę, czyli mylić się nie mogę.
Teraz staje się zrozumiałe dlaczego tak bardzo cieszę się z pomysłu skrócenia drogi w El Salwadorze i pojechania prosto na północ w kierunku Gwatemali. Umawiamy się z Darkiem na spotkanie w Playa, robimy pamiątkowe grupowe zdjęcia i rozjeżdżamy w przeciwnych kierunkach. Grupa na południe ja na północny wschód – Belize i Meksyk.

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