Acapulco

17-3-2016

 


Wszyscy, którzy czytają mój blog, wiedzą, że nie przepadam za wjeżdżaniem i przebywaniem w wielkich aglomeracjach miejskich. Niewiele w nich egzotyki i natury, a sporo kłopotów z parkowaniem, poruszaniem, no i szukaniem spokojnego, bezpiecznego miejsca na nocleg. Acapulco, do którego wyruszam jest właśnie takim ponad milionowym miastem, ale tym razem nie wiedzieć dlaczego obawy związane z pobytem w dużym mieście nie osaczają mnie, a wręcz odwrotnie. Coś magicznego, być może sama nazwa Acapulco, przyciąga mnie i sprawia, że z dużą niecierpliwością pakuję majdan, żegnam Puerto Angel i wcześnie rano ruszam na północ, by jeszcze przed zmrokiem dojechać do celu. Niecałe 300 km nie wydaje się daleko, ale zważywszy na wąskie drogi i częste postoje wymuszane wspaniałymi widokami wybrzeża, muszę liczyć około 8 godzin jazdy. Kończę śniadanie, jest ósma rano, czyli w sam raz. Kolację powinienem urządzić już na którejś z plaż Acapulco.

Droga wzdłuż: po lewej stronie linii brzegowej Pacyfiku, po prawej gór Południowych Sierra Madre zgodnie z oczekiwaniem, dostarczając wielu wspaniałych widoków sama w sobie jest niezłą przygodą. Panoramy spadzistych klifów, opadających gwałtownie do morza, gwarne metyskie wioski, przydrożni handlarze, zwierzęta przechadzające się wzdłuż, a od czasu do czasu i w poprzek drogi, przeładowane ludźmi i towarami ciężarówki i mnóstwo uzbrojonego po zęby wojska, do którego widoku, jadąc przez całą Amerykę Łacińską zdążyłem się przyzwyczaić, sprawiają, że czas w ogóle się nie dłuży. Wydaje się, że tyle co opuściłem spokojne Puerto Angel, a tu już zza kolejnego zakrętu wyłania się napis Buenvenidos in Acapulco.
Na drugim biegu, stromo pod górę wjeżdżam do długo oczekiwanego, chyba najbardziej znanego turystycznego miasta Meksyku. Jadąc wąskimi, zatłoczonymi drogami, przez tętniące życiem centrum, przez chwilę dopada mnie to co powoduje, że nie lubię dużych miast. Obawa przed nieznalezieniem parkingu, strach przed napadem i ta wielka koncentracja by nie daj Boże nie uwikłać się w jakąś drogową kolizję. Podobno w Meksyku bez względu na to czy się jest winnym wypadkowi czy nie do czasu wyjaśnienia obie strony lądują za kratami, a że wyjaśnienia trwają długo to i pobyt w „meksykańskim sanatorium” mógłby się przedłużyć, na co w ogóle nie mam ochoty. Czarne myśli jaśnieją, gdy zjeżdżając w kierunku morza - robi się coraz luźniej i spokojniej. Na szerokim, kilkupasmowym bulwarze z niedowierzaniem dostrzegam sporo miejsca przy krawężniku. W to miejsce, ryzykownie nawracając na ruchliwym skrzyżowani, próbuję się wbić. Obserwujący mnie policjant, nie tylko nie ma pretensji do moich karkołomnych ulicznych wyczynów (tutaj to normalka), ale jeszcze pomaga przy zaparkowaniu i zapewnia, że miejsce jest bardzo bezpieczne (na przeciwko jest port dla turystycznych jachtów, więc policja ma tu oko 24 godziny na dobę), a i stać mogę jak długo chcę i to zupełnie za friko. No może niezupełnie za friko, bo policjantowi za pomoc, cudne nowiny i nadzieję, że przez następne przynajmniej dwa dni (tyle zamierzam tu pozostać) nie będzie miał tylko „oko”, ale i oczy szeroko otwarte, odwdzięczam się sporym meksykańskim banknotem. W taki oto sposób rozbijam swój obóz na następne dwa, może trzy dni w centrum turystycznego Acapulco. Samochód stoi pięknie zaparkowany, fale szumią, uderzając o piaszczysty brzeg dosłownie 50 m ode mnie, słońce czerwoną kulą zanurza się powoli w głębinach Pacyfiku, góry dookoła zapadają w ciepły tropikalny sen – jest tak pięknie, że nie wyobrażam sobie czego można chcieć więcej. Czy można chcieć czegoś ponad to pomyślę jutro. Dzisiaj, jako, że w takich okolicznościach przyrody naturalnie o spaniu mowy nie ma, zamykam swój domek i nie bardzo wiedząc dokąd idę po prostu przed siebie, na pierwszy wieczorny spacer po wieczornym Acapulco.

Następny dzień, póki słońce na dobre nie wyjdzie zza wierzchołków Sierra Madre i nie rozgrzeje ziemi tak, że trudno będzie po niej stąpać, rozpoczynam od joggingu wzdłuż plaży. Chłodna bryza, błękitne kolory nieba, jaskrawe promienie wschodzącego słońca, krzątający się po porcie rybacy, wszystko to sprawia, że czuję, że budzi się po raz kolejny jeden z najpiękniejszych dni. Ze słuchawkami na uszach w rytm ”Acapulko, sdraiati insieme sotto al sole...” (Acapulco, połóż się pod słońcem) przemierzam 10 km i póki co o leżeniu pod coraz mocniej palącym słońcem mowy nie ma. Zaraz po śniadaniu wychodzę szukać tego z czego Acapulco słynie najbardziej. Idę szukać skał, z których niezwykli śmiałkowie oddają karkołomne skoki w głąb oceanu. La Quebrada - tak nazywa się ów słynny ponad 40 klif, z którego odbywają się pokazy skoków, okazuje się być zupełnie niedaleko. Pół godziny swobodnym spacerkiem, niestety pod górkę, ale na szczęście w cieniu wysokich zniszczonych kamienic, dochodzę tam skąd roztaczają się najpiękniejsze widoki na półkolistą, głęboką zatokę. Z lewej karkołomna droga nad przepaściami, prowadząca do drugiej strony miasta, z prawej niesłychanie malowniczy, słynny klif La Quebrada. Przed samym klifem pomnik wykonującego skok mężczyzny, wskazuje, że dobrze trafiłem. Teraz tylko kilkaset krętych schodów w dół do platformy widokowej i klif La Quebrada nie ma już przede mną tajemnic. Stoję na przeciwko skalistego, wysokiego, wpadającego w rozszalałe fale oceanu urwiska, i nawet najbardziej pobudzając wyobraźnię, nie mogę uwierzyć, że ktoś z tej skały może bez utraty życia skoczyć w dół. Patrząc na skaczącą z o wiele mniejszej wysokości, pod okiem instruktora, kobietę już mam zawroty głowy i oczywiście pełen podziw, a co dopiero będzie potem? Pokazy skoków, jak informuje tablica przy wejściu odbywają się o: 13:00, 19:30, 20:30 i 21:30. Pierwsza możliwość, czyli ta w południe wydaje mi się najkorzystniejsza ze względu na dobre światło, a chcę przecież porobić sporo zdjęć. Z drugiej strony w samo południe stać na niezacienionej platformie może być niezbyt przyjemne. Hm? No nic nawet do 13-tej jest jeszcze sporo czasu, więc z podjęciem decyzji mogę spokojnie poczekać.
Tymczasem zajrzę do innych zakątków miasta. Krętą szosą, o której wspomniałem przed chwilą, zlany potem, bo słońce pali już niemiłosiernie, dochodzę do przemiłej schowanej między skałami zatoczki. Nigdy tak szybko nie zrzucałem z siebie ciuchów i nie wskakiwałem do wody. Co za ulga. Brak ręcznika, czy też ubrań na przebranie nie stanowi żadnego problemu. Zanim dochodzę z powrotem do do drogi jestem już zupełnie suchy. Mam nadzieję, że takich zatoczek będzie jeszcze wiele. W końcu jestem nad morzem i to nie byle gdzie.

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