Droga do Salty

5-6-2014

 


Z Iguazu przebijam się na drugi, czyli zachodni koniec Argentyny. Do Salty - docelowego miasta - mam około 1.000 km. Początkowo droga jak zwykle jest monotonna i niewiele rzeczy przykuwa mą uwage. Jedna jednak zmusiła mnie do zatrzymania samochodu i sprawdzenia, czy się nie przewidziałem. Przy drodze widnieje olbrzymi portret papieża Jana Pawła II, a kościółek obok nosi nazwę "Częstochowa". Wspaniale - 12.000 km od Polski natknąć się na tak bliskie każdemu Polakowi miejsce.
Dopiero po minienciu prowincji Chaco i kilkunastu policyjnych kontroli (Chaco pod tym względem nie ma sobie równych, a ja 600 Peso mniej w kieszeni) krajobraz zaczyna się zmieniać. Pampa pozostaje z tyłu, ustępując miejsca bujnej podzwrotnikowej roślinności. Mieszkańcy mijających wiosek zdradzają iście indiańskie pochodzenie, a świnie, kozy, krowy, konie, kury, kaczki i inne wolno pasące się wzdłuż drogi zwierzęta dawno przestały mnie dziwić. Również lepianki, z których unosi się dym palonego w środku ogniska, nie należą do rzadkości. Mam wrażenie, że zaczyna się długo wyczekiwana przeze mnie egzotyka Ameryki Południowej.
Po dwóch dniach jazdy spotykam moją porzuconą na pograniczu Patagonii kochankę o wdzięcznym imieniu Ruta Quarenta (RN 40). Być może miał racje Heraklit z Efezu, mówiac, że nie można wejść dwa razy do tej samej rzeki, ale czy nie można drugi raz wjechać na tę samą droge? Można! I jest tak samo fajnie. RN 40, którą przejechałem prawie 3.000 km, ponownie prowadzi mnie na północ, w kierunku miasteczka Cafayate. Jako że Cafayate (położone na 1.600 m.n.p.m) słynie ze swych win i olbrzymiej ilości miejsc zachęcających do ich kosztowania, nie przepuszczam okazji. Zabawiam w miasteczku cały dzień, degustując tutejsze specjały.
Następnego dnia ponownie rozstaję się z RN 40 i wjeżdżam na RN 68. Droga z Cafayate na północ do Salty to jeden z najpiękniejszych argentyńskich odcinków, którymi przyszło mi jechać. Przyprawiające o zawrót głowy serpentyny Quebrada de Escaipe i doliny Calchaquies spowodowały, że na 70-cio kilometrowy odcinek potrzebuję prawie cały dzień. Co rusz zatrzymuję się na poboczu by sycić oczy wspaniałymi widokami najpierw tylko czerwonych, a później różnokolorowych gór. Szkoda, że nie pokonuję tej drogi rowerem – wrażenie byłoby pewnie jeszcze zmyślniejsze.
Kilkanaście kilometrów przed Saltą zjeżdżam z ponad 1.700 na 1.000 m. Kończą się serpentyny, a gładka prosta autostrada wiedzie mnie wprost do bram miasta, bo w Argentynie do każdego miasta wjeżdża się przez brame.

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i znowu \"gardlo diabla\"


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Teatr


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p.t. \"Dla Karoliny\"


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